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Whenever this happens, it finally starts after a period of about one hour waiting, and all is back to normal. I would be glad to replace the EGR valve myself, it is not that difficult, but before I spend that sum of money do you think it may be the problem or is it more complex having to to with computers and the electrical system?

The engine light has been on for a while--no problems, just 'running lean'. I changed the EGR valve, turned off the engine light, but it came on again.

What should I do now? I replaced that thing like three times now and now my car is starting to stall and make a bad metal grinding and rattling noise when I start it up.

I have a valve knock. I'm wondering if my engine is starting to go out on me. If anyone has any thoughts or even answers then please help.

It sounds as if your egr port plugs are clogged with carbon. By removing the plugs from the intake manifold not easy and cleaning out the plugged holes of carbon buildup and putting in new plugs will resolve this problem!

This particular problem appears out of nowhere one day. It appears when you are shifting from a stand still at a light from first to second to third gear, under RPMs.

Usually, letting off the gas and then feathering the gas returns it to normal operating condition, but it will repeat once in a while out of the blue.

The intake manifold has EGR plugs in them. My Honda accord four-cylinder it has four front and two rear plugs in the intake manifold.

The plugs themselves cost pennies each from your dealer. Some parts may have to be removed to gain access meaning a few more dollars for new gaskets depending on vehicle model.

Remember after you have assembled all, anything left inside gets sucked into the head, so be patient and through, and buy lots of extra plugs they are only pennies in case you lose some.

Doing yourself takes time if you are careful. Tools are not too expensive, and parts are very cheap. But a quote from my dealer was dollars stating each mechanic has their own special tricks to doing this.

I hope this helps. Before doing this I changed my fuel filter, plugs and wires, distributor cap and rotor, main relay, the EGR valve itself, etc. I finally found some threads online and changed these plugs and problem hasn't returned yet.

Hope this helps some of you and saves you some money. Thutch view entire post anon Post 61 i have a renault scenic.

I'm having problems with my egr valve. Denise Tucker Post 60 i have an 89 chevy s Well, i was told it might be the egr valve so i changed it and now when i start it it dies unless i give it gas.

When it does say running though, it's idled way low and putters but then smooths out. When i drive it doesn't have any power like before. The engine light isn't on and hasn't come on since i replaced it.

So I'm lost now. Please can someone help me? But your description is exactly what my car has been doing since I had it. I bought it back in Anyway, it when I was at at light or idle, it seems like the car would always act like it wanted to cut off, almost like a coughing and then rev itself back up.

But it never cut off. In the last couple weeks, it's been jerking when I barely tap the gas, and it jerks after I start it and shift into gear.

This morning, the light comes on, I take it to get checked and they say the EGR sensor. Now after reading these posts, it seems the EGR could be considered as more than 1 component, meaning valve vs sensor.

By the way, the mechanic reset my light, but I know I need to get this resolved, because they told me it could lead to other issues. Also, you can sometimes force carbon out of the valve by moving the valve mechanism up and down with a screwdriver while applying carb cleaner.

I got it plugged up on small portable device that read out codes, and it said my egr valve is the mean problem. The problem that the egr valve is causing is while I am driving, it completely cuts off at times and take about 10 or 15 minutes to start back up.

At first, it used to cut off after I had been driving for a while and the rpms get low, causing it to cut off if i didn't keep the rpm up, which I did by avoiding stop signs and or staying on highways.

Now the problems have increased. Could you be so kind to tell me what I should do to solve the problem.

It still stalled, so I took it to Nissan and found out was a gas problem I was using E Ethanol gas in my car which Nissan told me to fuel with gas not having Ethanol gas, so I found gas at a boat marina which did not have Ethanol.

And my car is running good now, no more stalling and I got my 41 mpgs back, from the 29 it was doing. So I think some of the problems on this board is due to the use of ethanol in gasoline.

I've done a tune up plugs, wires, cap, rotor, oil, transmission fluid, etc. Runs fine cold; but, when warm, stumbles above RPM. Check engine light flashes, then I lose two cylinders until I shut down and restart.

Tried new coils, plugs- now what? Fault codes don't pinpoint anything. It starts up every morning fine and dandy with fast idle as it is still frosty here and I can cruise around town mph for about let's say eight miles.

As the engine temp is approaching the normal range, the car idle speed is kicking down. It gets to the point where when I approach a stop, I must have one foot on the brake and the other feathering the gas pedal to keep the revs up.

If it does die, I have to wait at least 20 minutes before I can restart the vehicle. Battery is good, plugs changed 12 months ago, air cleaner is clean, and fuel filter is OK.

The vehicle does not burn oil, and this problem slowly started several months back. Dumb here as to that info at this moment.

Perhaps someone would know where I should start in trying to fix this thing. Higher combustion chamber temperatures.

Serious engine damage will occur eventually. I have seen it. A hole burned right through the side of piston. Replaced engine, test drove, egr code, customer: That's check engine light has been on forever!

The smog tech said I was burning too much gas. I believe I need a egr vacuum solenoid. I hope that is it. The pressure coming through is so much that even with it clamped down it would still blow off the line, until it finally goes through the side.

Now I can't get more than rpms, and 20mph max. Any ideas about what might be causing this? What should I do to fix my problem? I just put a used transmission 80, miles two weeks ago Note: It ran fine shifted fine before with old transmission.

There were metal chunks in the pan so I changed it. It ran fine shifts great and it seems there is no metal or slug in pan.

Anyway here's my problem: Then it will start back up but leave the stop sluggish then once you get moving, it's fine till I have to stop again.

Now I have it home. I get in and start it and then put it in reverse and it runs fine. I already changed the neutral switch so that's out.

Could it be a sensor or something? I used all of my old sensors and solenoids from my old transmission. Any help would be much appreciated.

I took it up to autozone and they said that excessive flow is detected. I also have a cold air intake on my car, is it possible that the two have anything to do with each other?

In the morning when i put the car in reverse it will idle and shutter idle and shutter only when i have to AC on max and when i turn the air of if goes away when it idles.

Comments on what to replace? If I clean the EGR valve, will the computer in car be reset? In case I shut down the EGR valve, will the horsepower be higher than usual?

How can I shut down the EGR valve? In fact we just had an exhaust leak fixed, fuel filter changed and plugs and wires replaced.

On the advise of two mechanics, we went ahead and changed the egr valve and the egr solenoid. The original problem which is check engine light went off, then came on again both times.

What else can be a potential problem? Hope you can help! My friend is a very nice guy and that niceness can also be seen in the way he appreciates his vehicles!

It starts to jerk when I am driving in slow traffic and when I am circling trying to find a parking space. The mechanic cleaned the egr and check engine light went out but next day it came back on and the problem is still there.

My car struggles to idle and when i break the car dies and the battery light comes on. If i leave the car off for 20 minutes or so the car will turn back on but will die once i start to break.

We have been advised that it could be the EGR valve. Could it really be? It had been losing power and black smoke coming out of exhaust. Got a mechanic to check it out.

Can anyone answer this? I replaced fuel filter and it ran fine for about 10 miles then the same problem. I shut it off once but restarted and later parked.

Any comments anon Post 24 Our vehicle has been running idling rough for a while until it warms up then runs smooth. Could it be the EGR valve?

Tired of spending money. The check engine light is on and the codes say insufficient flow. I have changed the egr valve regulator.

I found a leak in the egr tube. I fixed that, but the light came back. My gas mileage also varies from good to bad. Could this be my egr or my tranny?

It has almost 36, miles on it. I have taken it in to both a Chrysler dealer and a Dodge dealer because it has died a couple of times, but mainly because it chokes down like it is going to die while it is idle.

It is not pulling any codes. The Dodge guy said the EGR valve was bent, so they replaced that, but it is still doing it. They said it is normal for the TAC to bounce up and down little and that what it is doing to also normal.

Has any one had this problem, or have any suggestions? It is equipped with a factory quadrojet four barrel carb, and a single wire HEI distributor.

I am concerned with how this will effect my fuel milege. I'm not worried about emissions, as I am running a HHO hydrogen generator system, so emissions are near zero.

At present I am getting I just had new plugs distributor and rotor put in my van and every since when I start it, a bunch of white smoke comes out it a big white cloud, is this the egr valve?

I know I have to replace all the rubber hoses. I have greatly lost gas mileage and my Honda Accord won't get higher then RPMs and takes a long time to shift.

The check engine code says an EGR valve but I also had a new engine put in recently. I don't want to spend un-needed money if possible.

The problems with the idle have been corrected, but I have noticed a significant drop in my fuel mileage. After much fault finding I reluctantly took it to Renault.

Reading more about it I think it could possibly have been tack welded back on? The check engine light came on I changed the egr valve..

Light came back on.. I changed the vacuum sensor!! Thanks anon Post 4 where is the erg valve in a mazda millinia and is it possible to clean it?

Will the egr be affected if i have an exhaust leak because of a burned gasket or a hole in the manifold?

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I have a Buick Rendezvous fwd 3. I have a vs v6 ute. I have Ford F with a motor swap from an 89 F I have a hyundai sonata from year I have a dodge Dakota with the 4.

I have a Toyota Versa. The engine light is on in my Hyundai Sonata. I have a 98 mercury cougar, and I am facing an odd problem. I hope this helps to resolve the problems for EGR replacement.

How do I clean an EGR out of range and closed on a chevy s10 ? I have a mazda 3 hatchback. Two weeks ago I encountered an idling problem with my Honda Accord V-4 with code P showing on the computer.

I have a mercedes E wagon, and I have discovered a leak in the air conditioning unit under the car. I have a mercury grand marquis ls 4.

I have a GMC Suburban. My Acura CL 3. I have a Izusu Axiom. I have a Ford Expedition the transmission will not shift right unless it is manually shifted.

EGR valves seem to be a poor attempt at emission control on vehicles. My Chev Uplander 21, miles or 34, Km has light on.

I have a sonata Hyundai 2. There, one mechanic told me my car had a problem with the. I have a 95 Ford Ranger. Recently had stalling problem with Vauxhall Zafira.

I have a dodge intrepid. I have a '98 Chevy Malibu. I have a 97 intrepid 3. To ,1 the person with the 96 Dodge Intrepid: I have a 98 chevy cheyenne and it runs fine until i get to about 60 and when i hit the gas it just starts bogging out like it does not want to go.

Toyota Avensis 2L D4D starts in the morning and I drive for seven miles no problem, slow down change gear and accelerate, extreme loss of power and black smoke and slight smell of burning Diesel inside the car.

I have a Mitsubishi montero sport. Usually you have to go a certain speed usually 55 mph or over then decelerate and the light should come up because the car will notice the emissions aren't coming out the same.

I have a 98 honda accord ex v I have a 95 Tacoma 4WD 3. I have a mazda protege. I have a Suzuki Esteem and the engine light came on but it runs great.

I have a 96 Dodge Intrepid 3. I have a Ford Expedition that has K miles on it. I have a Ford Ranger truck with 30, miles on it.

I drove the truck for. Respectfully submitted -- Gene. I have a '97 Ford Explorer. I have a Pontiac Sunbird and when our check engine light came on, the mechanic said it was because of our oxygen sensor.

Usually, letting off the gas and then. In response to 19, I have a 07 Chrysler , and just today my engine light came on. This morning, the light comes on, I take it to get checked and they say the EGR.

For all those asking how to clean an egr valve: My egr valve, assuming that is the problem, is not operating right.

I have a 93 Nissan stanza Altima and it was stalling when I come to a light, or when i start the car would stall before I could shift the car into gear automatic trans.

I have an 87 Ford F okay, and like I've done everything. I have an 89 Isuzu Trooper four-wheel drive, K km, automatic 2.

Battery is good, plugs changed 12 months ago, air. Typical passenger car engines operate mostly at part load conditions where temperatures are relatively low.

The wide scale launch of cooled EGR on heavy-duty engines that attracted a lot of attention to the technology took place in late in the North American market.

High pressure loop cooled EGR was the most expedient in-cylinder NOx reduction technology that could achieve this emission level [].

There was a considerable apprehension in the field regarding the performance, fuel economy, and the durability of these new engines. While initial statements from fleet managers appeared to praise the new technology [] , some users have complained of the increase in fuel consumption.

For EPA , the 0. Navistar—the only manufacturer to temporarily use EGR without aftertreatment for EPA —was able to do so only by certifying engines to 0.

However, the use of EGR was often minimized and in some cases, restricted to certain low load conditions with no EGR used at higher load operating conditions such as highway cruise.

EGR technology was also adopted by nonroad engines. These engines used high pressure loop cooled EGR and a variable geometry turbocharger.

It is interesting to note that the EGR engine used in the John Deere series tractor in had the lowest fuel consumption of all time as determined by the University of Nebraska Tractor Test Laboratory , demonstrating that the fuel economy penalty associated with EGR can be overcome by skillful engine design.

By , the idea of using an SCR-only approach for Tier 4 final seemed to be spreading []. Low-speed marine engine applications of EGR are perhaps the most challenging technically.

These engines are designed to burn heavy-fuel oil HFO that produces exhaust gas heavily laden with metals, sulfur and other components that must be removed before the exhaust gas is re-introduced into the engine.

Many advanced combustion concepts under development—for instance low temperature combustion LTC —utilize very high EGR rates for emission control. This is likely to put even more demand on future EGR systems and their components if the application of LTC over a significant portion of the engine operating map becomes commercial.

Depending on the stringency of the respective emission standards, on the progress in NOx conversion efficiency and durability of SCR catalysts, and on the relative costs of diesel fuel and urea, three main NOx reduction technology pathways can be used in modern diesel engines:.

The EGR reduces NOx through lowering the oxygen concentration in the combustion chamber, as well as through heat absorption. Several configurations have been proposed, including high- and low-pressure loop EGR, as well as hybrid systems.

EGR is also used in gasoline engines, primarily in order to reduce pumping work and increase engine efficiency. Cooled EGR introduced in larger size Euro 3 engines, and became the standard in Euro 4 and later diesel passenger cars and light trucks.

Miller-type intake valve timing was the alternative technology to EGR Caterpillar.

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Doing yourself takes time if you are careful. Tools are not too expensive, and parts are very cheap. But a quote from my dealer was dollars stating each mechanic has their own special tricks to doing this.

I hope this helps. Before doing this I changed my fuel filter, plugs and wires, distributor cap and rotor, main relay, the EGR valve itself, etc.

I finally found some threads online and changed these plugs and problem hasn't returned yet. Hope this helps some of you and saves you some money.

Thutch view entire post anon Post 61 i have a renault scenic. I'm having problems with my egr valve. Denise Tucker Post 60 i have an 89 chevy s Well, i was told it might be the egr valve so i changed it and now when i start it it dies unless i give it gas.

When it does say running though, it's idled way low and putters but then smooths out. When i drive it doesn't have any power like before.

The engine light isn't on and hasn't come on since i replaced it. So I'm lost now. Please can someone help me? But your description is exactly what my car has been doing since I had it.

I bought it back in Anyway, it when I was at at light or idle, it seems like the car would always act like it wanted to cut off, almost like a coughing and then rev itself back up.

But it never cut off. In the last couple weeks, it's been jerking when I barely tap the gas, and it jerks after I start it and shift into gear.

This morning, the light comes on, I take it to get checked and they say the EGR sensor. Now after reading these posts, it seems the EGR could be considered as more than 1 component, meaning valve vs sensor.

By the way, the mechanic reset my light, but I know I need to get this resolved, because they told me it could lead to other issues.

Also, you can sometimes force carbon out of the valve by moving the valve mechanism up and down with a screwdriver while applying carb cleaner.

I got it plugged up on small portable device that read out codes, and it said my egr valve is the mean problem. The problem that the egr valve is causing is while I am driving, it completely cuts off at times and take about 10 or 15 minutes to start back up.

At first, it used to cut off after I had been driving for a while and the rpms get low, causing it to cut off if i didn't keep the rpm up, which I did by avoiding stop signs and or staying on highways.

Now the problems have increased. Could you be so kind to tell me what I should do to solve the problem. It still stalled, so I took it to Nissan and found out was a gas problem I was using E Ethanol gas in my car which Nissan told me to fuel with gas not having Ethanol gas, so I found gas at a boat marina which did not have Ethanol.

And my car is running good now, no more stalling and I got my 41 mpgs back, from the 29 it was doing. So I think some of the problems on this board is due to the use of ethanol in gasoline.

I've done a tune up plugs, wires, cap, rotor, oil, transmission fluid, etc. Runs fine cold; but, when warm, stumbles above RPM.

Check engine light flashes, then I lose two cylinders until I shut down and restart. Tried new coils, plugs- now what? Fault codes don't pinpoint anything.

It starts up every morning fine and dandy with fast idle as it is still frosty here and I can cruise around town mph for about let's say eight miles.

As the engine temp is approaching the normal range, the car idle speed is kicking down. It gets to the point where when I approach a stop, I must have one foot on the brake and the other feathering the gas pedal to keep the revs up.

If it does die, I have to wait at least 20 minutes before I can restart the vehicle. Battery is good, plugs changed 12 months ago, air cleaner is clean, and fuel filter is OK.

The vehicle does not burn oil, and this problem slowly started several months back. Dumb here as to that info at this moment. Perhaps someone would know where I should start in trying to fix this thing.

Higher combustion chamber temperatures. Serious engine damage will occur eventually. I have seen it. A hole burned right through the side of piston.

Replaced engine, test drove, egr code, customer: That's check engine light has been on forever! The smog tech said I was burning too much gas. I believe I need a egr vacuum solenoid.

I hope that is it. The pressure coming through is so much that even with it clamped down it would still blow off the line, until it finally goes through the side.

Now I can't get more than rpms, and 20mph max. Any ideas about what might be causing this? What should I do to fix my problem? I just put a used transmission 80, miles two weeks ago Note: It ran fine shifted fine before with old transmission.

There were metal chunks in the pan so I changed it. It ran fine shifts great and it seems there is no metal or slug in pan.

Anyway here's my problem: Then it will start back up but leave the stop sluggish then once you get moving, it's fine till I have to stop again.

Now I have it home. I get in and start it and then put it in reverse and it runs fine. I already changed the neutral switch so that's out.

Could it be a sensor or something? I used all of my old sensors and solenoids from my old transmission. Any help would be much appreciated.

I took it up to autozone and they said that excessive flow is detected. I also have a cold air intake on my car, is it possible that the two have anything to do with each other?

In the morning when i put the car in reverse it will idle and shutter idle and shutter only when i have to AC on max and when i turn the air of if goes away when it idles.

Comments on what to replace? If I clean the EGR valve, will the computer in car be reset? In case I shut down the EGR valve, will the horsepower be higher than usual?

How can I shut down the EGR valve? In fact we just had an exhaust leak fixed, fuel filter changed and plugs and wires replaced. On the advise of two mechanics, we went ahead and changed the egr valve and the egr solenoid.

The original problem which is check engine light went off, then came on again both times. What else can be a potential problem?

Hope you can help! My friend is a very nice guy and that niceness can also be seen in the way he appreciates his vehicles!

It starts to jerk when I am driving in slow traffic and when I am circling trying to find a parking space. The mechanic cleaned the egr and check engine light went out but next day it came back on and the problem is still there.

My car struggles to idle and when i break the car dies and the battery light comes on. If i leave the car off for 20 minutes or so the car will turn back on but will die once i start to break.

We have been advised that it could be the EGR valve. Could it really be? It had been losing power and black smoke coming out of exhaust. Got a mechanic to check it out.

Can anyone answer this? I replaced fuel filter and it ran fine for about 10 miles then the same problem. I shut it off once but restarted and later parked.

Any comments anon Post 24 Our vehicle has been running idling rough for a while until it warms up then runs smooth.

Could it be the EGR valve? Tired of spending money. The check engine light is on and the codes say insufficient flow. I have changed the egr valve regulator.

I found a leak in the egr tube. I fixed that, but the light came back. My gas mileage also varies from good to bad.

Could this be my egr or my tranny? It has almost 36, miles on it. I have taken it in to both a Chrysler dealer and a Dodge dealer because it has died a couple of times, but mainly because it chokes down like it is going to die while it is idle.

It is not pulling any codes. The Dodge guy said the EGR valve was bent, so they replaced that, but it is still doing it. They said it is normal for the TAC to bounce up and down little and that what it is doing to also normal.

Has any one had this problem, or have any suggestions? It is equipped with a factory quadrojet four barrel carb, and a single wire HEI distributor.

I am concerned with how this will effect my fuel milege. I'm not worried about emissions, as I am running a HHO hydrogen generator system, so emissions are near zero.

At present I am getting I just had new plugs distributor and rotor put in my van and every since when I start it, a bunch of white smoke comes out it a big white cloud, is this the egr valve?

I know I have to replace all the rubber hoses. I have greatly lost gas mileage and my Honda Accord won't get higher then RPMs and takes a long time to shift.

The check engine code says an EGR valve but I also had a new engine put in recently. I don't want to spend un-needed money if possible.

The problems with the idle have been corrected, but I have noticed a significant drop in my fuel mileage. After much fault finding I reluctantly took it to Renault.

Reading more about it I think it could possibly have been tack welded back on? The check engine light came on I changed the egr valve..

Light came back on.. I changed the vacuum sensor!! Thanks anon Post 4 where is the erg valve in a mazda millinia and is it possible to clean it?

Will the egr be affected if i have an exhaust leak because of a burned gasket or a hole in the manifold? Engine light came on After "re-setting" today, the engine light has not come back on Any comments would be appreciated.

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I have a Buick Rendezvous fwd 3. I have a vs v6 ute. I have Ford F with a motor swap from an 89 F I have a hyundai sonata from year I have a dodge Dakota with the 4.

I have a Toyota Versa. The engine light is on in my Hyundai Sonata. I have a 98 mercury cougar, and I am facing an odd problem.

I hope this helps to resolve the problems for EGR replacement. How do I clean an EGR out of range and closed on a chevy s10 ?

I have a mazda 3 hatchback. Two weeks ago I encountered an idling problem with my Honda Accord V-4 with code P showing on the computer.

I have a mercedes E wagon, and I have discovered a leak in the air conditioning unit under the car. I have a mercury grand marquis ls 4.

I have a GMC Suburban. My Acura CL 3. I have a Izusu Axiom. I have a Ford Expedition the transmission will not shift right unless it is manually shifted.

EGR valves seem to be a poor attempt at emission control on vehicles. My Chev Uplander 21, miles or 34, Km has light on.

I have a sonata Hyundai 2. There, one mechanic told me my car had a problem with the. I have a 95 Ford Ranger. Recently had stalling problem with Vauxhall Zafira.

I have a dodge intrepid. I have a '98 Chevy Malibu. I have a 97 intrepid 3. To ,1 the person with the 96 Dodge Intrepid: I have a 98 chevy cheyenne and it runs fine until i get to about 60 and when i hit the gas it just starts bogging out like it does not want to go.

Toyota Avensis 2L D4D starts in the morning and I drive for seven miles no problem, slow down change gear and accelerate, extreme loss of power and black smoke and slight smell of burning Diesel inside the car.

I have a Mitsubishi montero sport. Usually you have to go a certain speed usually 55 mph or over then decelerate and the light should come up because the car will notice the emissions aren't coming out the same.

I have a 98 honda accord ex v I have a 95 Tacoma 4WD 3. I have a mazda protege. I have a Suzuki Esteem and the engine light came on but it runs great.

I have a 96 Dodge Intrepid 3. I have a Ford Expedition that has K miles on it. I have a Ford Ranger truck with 30, miles on it.

I drove the truck for. Respectfully submitted -- Gene. I have a '97 Ford Explorer. I have a Pontiac Sunbird and when our check engine light came on, the mechanic said it was because of our oxygen sensor.

Usually, letting off the gas and then. In response to 19, I have a 07 Chrysler , and just today my engine light came on.

This morning, the light comes on, I take it to get checked and they say the EGR. For all those asking how to clean an egr valve: My egr valve, assuming that is the problem, is not operating right.

I have a 93 Nissan stanza Altima and it was stalling when I come to a light, or when i start the car would stall before I could shift the car into gear automatic trans.

I have an 87 Ford F okay, and like I've done everything. I have an 89 Isuzu Trooper four-wheel drive, K km, automatic 2. Battery is good, plugs changed 12 months ago, air.

As noted, a clogged egr valve can cause engine knock, which is actually the fuel exploding and not burning.

I have a Honda Accord and I fail the smog test. One of the vacuum lines coming off the egr hardline going to the sensor kept blowing off.

I have Intrepid checked on the machine. OK I have a 98 expedition 4. I have a mercury cougar and the check engine light came on yesterday.

I have nissan almera 2,2 dci year. I have a Ford Focus and the engine light came on but it runs great. I have a mercury cougar.

I have a Audi A3. I have a clio 15 dci. I have Mazda pertage 98 1. I bought a car 4 weeks ago and after a day the engine light came on.. Our vehicle has been running idling rough for a while until it warms up then runs smooth.

I have a ford taurus. My Chrys, NYr will loose power at around 60mph or below sometimes. I have a Chrysler Touring.

I have an 86 Chevy Silverado with a newer 5. I was wondering if anyone can tell me if my egr is bad?

Egr Video

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